Maintenance Help 
IMPROVED        BreakFlange
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When rebuilding the Break Flange the Mueller hydrant BONNET
must be disassembled. Refer to the Improved Bonnet Maintenance link above for special tools required and bonnet removal procedures.

If you have ordered a Mueller boxed Break Flange Repair KIT from L&C, included are detailed instructions for installing the KIT ordered. Most Kits include illustrations for removing old assemblies.  The following LC HELP Files answer many questions that the instruction list may not easily explain. 

Centurion70
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If the Mueller Fire Hydrant was properly installed, when something hits and
breaks the Break Flange(s) and internal Rod Coupling the results should look
like the picture to the left. The grooves on the Break Flanges will shear-off
and the internal rod coupling will break. The rest of the old Break Flanges
will still be attached to the hydrant head base.

 

The water is still on to the hydrant with the Main Valve Assembly holding
closed due to the inlet water pressure behind it as shown. If the Main Valve
is holding closed tightly with no water filling the barrel, leave the water
supply ahead of the hydrant inlet shoe turned on for Break Flange and
hydrant head rebuilding.  If the water supply to the hydrant is turned off,
the Main Valve Assembly and lower stem will drop down to the open position.
The top of the Lower Stem will now be too low for connection of new break
coupling and upper barrel reinstall.

Follow installation instructions that are supplied with each Mueller
Break Flange Rebuild Kit.

Imp68
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Turn Brass Stem Coupling and Upper Stem so that slot in Stem Coupling aligns with the tongue and groove of stems. Hold Upper Stem in alignment and screw Stem Coupling upward until tongue and groove of Stems firmly lock together. Tighten with wrench. With Stem Coupling in place, slide Brass Sleeve downward so that the lower end of sleeve surrounds upper end of Stem Coupling. Be sure Brass Sleeve projections fit into Stem Coupling slots. With Brass Sleeve in place, tighten set screw in Brass Sleeve.

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Note the Tongue and Groove alignment of Upper Stem (blue) and Lower Stem (green) for the procedures described left.

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Place new Brass Sleeve onto upper stem.  (NOTE: If upper stem Of hydrant Is 1-1/4" in diameter, cut Sleeve as indicated by lettering on sleeve)  Screw new Brass Stem Coupling onto Lower Stem as far as threads permit. Screw Upper Stem into Stem Coupling until it contacts the Lower Stem.

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Mueller Stainless Steel Break Coupling Designs

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CURRENT DESIGN Illustrated at left:
This New Design is a Stainless Steel material  [ASTM A890]
The Safety Stem Coupling must be installed with
notches towards the Lower Stem.
NOTE: One side is cast "This End Up" with an arrow.

1972 - 1980  Illustrated at right: Original Design
This design was made of steel with zinc plating as
standard and optionally with a black nylon coating.
One end of the coupling is clearly stamped Safety Stem
Coupling
  This End Up. The other end (towards the
lower stem) has a notch below the lower pin. If you
have a bunch of spare Mueller rod couplings, make
sure the coupling is a Break Coupling and not a
hydrant extension rod coupling.
THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE.

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Mueller Safety Break Flanges

The Mueller Safety Break Flange Halves have a recess area that breaks in pieces when hit. The Safety Break Flange Halves are identified with a cast wording of "SAFETY" as illustrated to the left.
When installed the cast lettering must be facing DOWN.

If you spare Mueller Flanges, make sure the Flange Halves are cast "SAFETY" and include the groove.  Pictured at left is a set of hydrant Extension Flanges.  They are cast "EXT" and should never be used as a Break Flange set. They also do not have the groove.lcmhbf23rd

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