bronze to cast iron matting

This series of Mueller hydrants have their bronze Seat Ring screwed directly into the cast iron shoe casting that has mated threads. Over decades of this bronze to cast iron matting, galling has occurred, making seat removal more difficult.

The left picture shows that a seat ring installs by turning clockwise.

The Red area on the seat ring is a special copper with inner asbestos gasket that is a seal.

The Bonnet must first be removed as the normal operating position for the Seat Wrench is mounted where the bonnet was bolted on.

Click the Bonnet link for help on removing that first.

This tool is used to remove the Main Valve Assembly when repairs are required. Wrench self-centers on upper barrel flange. Sent complete with bronze Stem Extension piece (on top of wrench in dark blue), and (2) operator bars.

This heavy-duty long style wrench is lowered all the way down the hydrant barrel and engages with the Bronze Seat Ring (pictured in yellow).

The wrench was designed for use with All Years of the Mueller "Improved" style fire  hydrants. It can be used on the Centurion series as well.

The "Seat Ring" is factory installed at 350 Foot Pounds of torque. This long style wrench puts all your effort directly on the seat ring.

The wrench will fit ONLY ONE SIZE of seat ring - depending on what size spider HUB is attached to the bottom end. The Hub is the casting piece that rests onto the Bronze Seat Ring. Each casting Hub is marked as to what size it will fit.

A spider hub marked 4-1/2" will also fit a 4-1/4" VO size.
You can change the casting Hub to other size. The Hub piece is held in place with a compression screw.
   RE: If you have both 4-1/4", 4-1/2" and 5-1/4" Main Valve Sizes in your system but your Spider Hub Casting is for only 4-1/4 4-1/2" size, you can order a separate Hub Casting to fit the 5-1/4" seat ring size.

Seat removal on an old Chatt. hydrant is NOT as easily accomplished as this guy makes it look to be.

1. We recommend 2-people to remove the seat ring assembly.
2. Have a large brass head sledge hammer with you.
3. Bring a pair of extra long 1-1/4" pipes with you for extra leverage on the "T" top. We recommend 4 to 5 foot long ones.

To insure the readiness for instantaneous use, all fire hydrants should be inspected and tested at six-month intervals.

Unscrew one nozzle cap slightly and tighten the others.  Slowly open the main valve to its fully open position.  Tighten the one loose nozzle cap when water starts flowing.

Inspect bonnet flange Gasket and bolts for visual indication that all is water tight.

Next remove the oil plug from the bonnet.  If all is well, no oil or water should be exiting this hole. This confirms that the (2) Stem O-Rings (H93) are doing their job.

If oil and water exits this hole, both of the stem O-rings have failed allowing water to enter the reservoir system.  Either they were damaged during the bonnet rebuild or if not rebuilt yet those O-Rings have dried out and require replacing. If you have fluid exiting around the outside of the Hold Down Nut, then the bonnet O-Ring (H100) also has failed. If fluid escapes from around the Operating Nut, then the Hold down nut O-Ring (H101) has also failed.

Fully close the main valve, then remove a nozzle cap completely.  Assuming that your hydrant has the self-draining system, examine the inside of the barrel to make certain that the drain valves have completely drained the water from the barrel.

Proper shutdown of all Mueller hydrants is to fully close the main valve assembly, then turn in opening direction approximately 1/4 turn to relieve the tension on the operating mechanism.

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